东北雪场走一圈的感受

春节期间走了一圈东北的雪场,一些游后感

  • Long story short, 目前的情况是:欧洲三流的雪场放在国内就是最好的,最大的,另加最便宜的
  • 最大的问题是缺乏滑雪文化,所有的东西基本上是用景区,而且是比较坑人的景区模式来操作的
  • 价格奇贵无比
  • 大部分雪场面向初级滑雪者,更多是一个冬季综合度假区,而不是面向户外群体,或者滑雪群体,如果以滑雪为目的去这些地方,会产生较大的期望值偏差

长白山万达:在有滑雪传统的地方属于八流雪场的级别,如果你平时滑雪的地方是阿尔卑斯,北欧,科罗拉多,加拿大BC,长白山万达完全可以不去。

说几个数字:

  • 高差343米,高级道大将军大概是欧洲雪场红道的水平,差不多能滑两分钟,好处是可以放速度滑,因为人非常少
  • 价格带雪具一天970,不带雪具一天740,这个价格比我知道的欧洲最贵的Zermatt要贵很多
  • 在大厅里排队基本上很难买到雪票,具体原因不明,最后通过票贩子搞定
  • 开车进入度假区,所有的路标都是指向酒店的,我竟然找不到雪场的起点在哪里,需要问路。
  • 配套设施比较全,度假的设定大大超过滑雪

长白山西坡:自然条件上是中国东部最好的,观察了一下地形和雪况,雪崩的概率也比较低。但是由于人为的原因,整个设定给人的观感非常差,完全是景区设定,偏向坑人的那种。尤其如果没有提前订好票。

  • 进入景区买门票,小100的样子
  • 车不能开入景区,必须交钱乘坐所谓的环保车,环保车目测是车龄十年以上的冒灰烟的考斯特,价格小100
  • 到了山门交钱坐雪地摩托上天池,价格100多点儿。这里是最奇葩的部分,雪地摩托后面带着巨大的雪板架子,不准带雪板,理由是滑雪是另一家公司承包的山头,如果要滑雪另外交799。这里没有缆车,是cat ski,公平地说cat ski一天799不贵。但是你自带登山板,不用他们的设施滑雪也必须交799,因为他们号称承包了整座山头,此处有呵呵。问说不用他们的设施为什么要交钱?答曰这里是自然保护区,你不能自己乱走。交了钱就可以乱走了。

讲真,长白山西坡,如果不是这种人为的垄断坑爹式管理,是一个挺有意思的地方。但是目前的这种管理让无拘无束的户外狗们觉得非常不自在,而长白山西坡的条件只适合相对高级的滑雪者,一个巨大的misfit between product and targeting users

北大壶:北大壶是这次行程当中的惊喜,

  • 有一些真正的滑雪者
  • 雪道上E9E12, E5 都可以放速度滑起来,后来看数据,E9滑到96 km/h,看数字就能有个概念吧
  • 价格合理,虽然春节期间的价格也有些不合理,但是平时的价格还是比较公道的。这一点国内的雪场完全是当做旅游产品来操作的,大部分欧洲的雪场也有旺季和淡季之分,但是一般的方式是旺季价格合理,淡季价格稍便宜一些来吸引游客。国内大部分雪场是淡季价格已经很贵,旺季用宰客的节奏提价
  • 没有一大堆景区坑人的设定
  • 因为雪量够,off piste的机会很多

万科松花湖mediocre in everything

  • 雪场水平介于长白山万达和北大壶之间
  • 配套设施也介于万达和北大壶之间

本文的出发点是滑雪,可能以度假为目的的用户会跟我得出不同的结论。

长白山万达雪场

 

长白山万达雪道图

 

以下是长白山天池西坡,太冷,一会儿手机就冻死了。

way to tianchi crater

 

panorama  tianchi

 

cat station

 

Managed to get some powder in the woods.

 

北大壶E5雪道

2015年冬季富士山计划

今年春节计划北海道滑雪,想着顺便把富士山滑了,现在计划是初六出发Niseko滑4-5天,回东京,开车去富士山五合目,宿,凌晨出发,中午下山,下午箱根温泉,晚上回东京。大致行程可以走Niseko — Tokyo — Fuji — Hakone — Tokyo, 时间多可以增加地点。

Mount fuji plan Feb-March 2015

File a climbing plan with the Yoshida police here http://www.pref.shizuoka.jp/police/kurashi/sangaku/kekakusho.html

“Shizuoka Prefectural Police mountain rescue team distress”

Sanada Suzuki

TEL054-271-0110 (representative)

FAX 054-271-3776 (direct)

D1: Tokyo – Kawaguchiko – Subaru 5th station. Should arrive at Subaru 5th station at 18:00, no later than 19:00.

Transport:

1) By car.

tokyo-fuji-drive

2) By bus

Off season, bus from the Shinjuku bus terminal (near western end of Shinjuku Station) to end of the Fuji Suburu Line, no direct season till April, transfer needed. Bus schedule can be found here: http://www.japan-guide.com/bus/fuji.html, operates daily. More info can be found here.

Operated by: Fujikyu Bus

 
Z
A
A
A
A
A
Z
Fujisan Station 08:10 09:10 10:10 11:10 12:20 13:40 16:40
Kawaguchiko Station 08:20 09:20 10:20 11:20 12:30 13:50 16:50
5th Station 09:15 10:15 11:15 12:15 13:25 14:45 17:45

 

 
Z
A
A
A
A
A
Z
5th Station 09:40 10:50 11:50 13:20 14:20 15:30 17:50
Kawaguchiko Station 10:25 11:35 12:35 14:05 15:05 16:15 18:35
Fujisan Station 10:35 11:45 12:45 14:15 15:15 16:25 18:45

A = operates daily, Z = operates daily during September only

However, according to the site, road might be closed due to snow, which happens often during winter. (How often?)

D2: Get up at 5 am, start from Subaru 5th station 五合目 (2305m). Since mount fuji is quite windy, should start out too early, a few hours after sunrise, the snow could soften a bit to be easier for skiing. Start out at 5:45 (sunrise at around 6:15 in end of Feb), ski touring upshould reach summit (3776m) at 10:30 – 11:30, depends on whether taking a lunch break. Ski down to 五合目,estimate 30 – 45 mins. Should reach the station at noon. Drive to Hakone (箱根), take a dip in the hot spring, back to Tokyo at night J

mt-fuji-feb-weather

Above is weather from Snowforecast, Feb 2014, looks mild, the only problem could be the wind, but should be able to manage.

fuji-area-map

Mount Fuji area map.

 

 

Elbrus plan 厄尔布鲁士计划

花1小时做了Elbrus的计划,是个比较简单的山,主要的Objective danger是天气,如果合适的装备和经验,基本可以轻松写意地搞定。

但是又看了一下俄罗斯签证和各种许可证,估计一时半会儿办不了,留着明年用了。

D1,晚上8点的飞机到矿泉城,可以定车到Elbrus山脚下的小镇Terskol  (2100m),大概200km的距离,需要3-4个小时

D2,海拔适应,登Cheget (3450m), 坐缆车上去,滑雪2-3小时,下午3点左右滑雪下山谷。

D3,上午出发,上汽油桶小屋Barrel Hut (3800m), 总共三段缆车,最后一段有可能不开,从第二个缆车到汽油桶徒步大概30-40分钟。在汽油桶简单调整,再次海拔适应训练,可以走到Pashtuhova rocks (4670m),或者垭口 (5416m),海拔适应原则就是尽量走高宿低,晚上宿汽油桶营地。

D4,如果1)天气合适,2)体能状态好,直接冲顶,可以当日滑下至Terskol valley。不然就增加一天海拔适应。

D5,预留登顶日。

D6,预留登顶日。

如果去之前海拔适应好,又恰巧赶上好天气,是一个可以一两天来回的山,只需要D3+D4, 哈。

Day 1, Arrive at Mineral Vody airport at 20:00, transport to Terskol (2100m), takes about 3-4 hours, 200 km.

Day 2, Acclimatization, ascend to Cheget Mountain (3450 m), ski around for 2-3 hours, back to the valley at 15:00

Day 3, Start in the morning, go up to Barrel hut (3800m),  from the first lift, it takes 3 lifts up to Barrel hut, 3rd lift might be closed, then one can walk for 30-40 mins from the 2nd lift up to the hut. To acclimatize more, walk up to the Pashtuhova rocks (4670m) or the saddle (5416m), stay for 30 mins, ski down. Sleep low at the Barrel hut.

Day 4, If 1) weather is good, 2) physical condition is good, try summit, Ski down to Terskol valley if possible. Otherwise, take the day easy for extra acclimatization.

Day 5, Reserved summit day.

Day 6, Reserved summit day.

Weather: MOUNT ELBRUS WEATHER FORECAST

Mount Elbrus-standard route as viewed from Cheget Peak.
A=Barrels hut; the normal starting point for the climb of Mount Elbrus, elevation 3800m
B=Approximate location of Deisel Hut, elevation 4157 m
C=Pashtuhova Rocks elevation 4670 m
D=Saddle, elevation 5416 m
E=West Summit elevation 5642.7 m
F=East Summit elevation, 18,441 feet (5621 meters)