感觉小小的一件事情，发现其实在非常工作中复杂的项目，生活中都能找到共通之处，很多时候会处于当局者迷的状态，就会患得患失。And most things you know it has to be like what you think, but not until you get it. 想起闻香识女人里那段台词，艾尔帕西诺说自己在人生的十字路口要做选择的时候，I always knew what the right path was. Without exception, I knew. But I never took it, and you know why? Because it was too damn hard..
之前他的TED talk看过好几遍，人都是视觉动物，在看到Free solo成片之前，我虽然对他说的很有共鸣，但是主要的take away也只是practice makes perfect。
看了Free Solo电影成片，一身冷汗。普通人看这个片子大概率不会觉得太震撼，Jimmy chin并没有在视觉效果上过分夸张地呈现，我怀疑有些人看起来甚至会觉得有些平淡，完全没有垂直极限那种抓马，也缺乏碟中谍那种个人英雄主义的场景，更没有point brake里面的那些略显杂乱的混剪镜头。但是，如果你是个climber，是这个片子的代入感会强到你无法控制，每一个岩点都会忍不住想，if it was me, I probably would be totally freaked out… 手心就会开始出汗，忍不住有种死过好几回了的感觉。
El Cap的高度差不多900米左右，在没有任何保护措施的情况下一个人爬上去。这需要的是perfect execution, 100%的精确度，没有任何犯错的空间。电影里有一段很有趣的情节，用核磁共振扫描A同学大脑杏仁体(amygdala)，一个控制人类恐惧情绪的部位，扫描的结果发现对普通人有很强刺激性的图案对A同学几乎没有刺激作用，科学白话的解释就是他是一个稳如狗的的人，俗称泰山崩于前面不改色。这个特质对于4个小时以上的高强度集中精力和体力的过程变成可能。
“The most difficult part of the whole route was called the Boulder Problem. It was about 2,000 feet off the ground and consisted of the hardest physical moves on the whole route: long pulls between poor handholds with very small, slippery feet. This is what I mean by a poor handhold: an edge smaller than the width of a pencil but facing downward that I had to press up into with my thumb. But that wasn’t even the hardest part.The crux culminated in a karate kick with my left foot over to the inside of an adjacent corner, a maneuver that required a high degree of precision and flexibility, enough so that I’d been doing a nightly stretching routine for a full year ahead of time to make sure that I could comfortably make the reach with my leg.“
Over Christmas/New Year 18/19, I stayed in Verbier for a few days, one of Europe’s most famous ski resorts for it’s infinite off piste routes.
Heard of a few allegedly legendary offpiste routes, gotta try them. Weird thing is when you google them, there isn’t much info regarding how to find them. Hence writing this post about how to access to of the most famous ones. Backside of Mt Fort and Stairway to Heaven.
Stairway to heaven is without a doubt one of the most famous offpiste routes out there. I haven’t no clue if it has any relation with Led Zeppelin’s true legendary song.
Verbier Stairway to heaven.
You need Verbier 4 vallées pass to reach the high cable car station named Col-des-Gentianes.
To reach Col-des-Gentianes, you can take 3 Jumbo up from La Chaux or 1 Col-des-Gentianes. One could also ski down from Mont Fort then take a button lift 6 Gentianes up. See map below.
3. Best bearing point for find where to go up the stairway is if you take the button lift 6 Gentianes, it’s right in your right hand side. Most probably you will see either ppl hiking up or a track from others have hiked up, I double checked with the ski patrol on the button lift station, see photo below.
4. When you come up on Col-des-Gentianes, I will recommend hike a bit higher to start with, then take the momentum to reach all the way where the “stairs” starts. The stairs are basically a steep couloir going up.
5. You ski down Glacier des Louettes Econduè. Google isn’t very efficient in find this terrain names. To find it on Google Map, you need to type exact words: “Glacier des Louettes Econduè 1997 Nendaz Switzerland Glacier”. Direct link to it: https://goo.gl/maps/c5tpk8FngJm
6. You’ll most probably reach Tortin cable car station in the end of the route.
Backside of Mont Fort in Verbier
Backside is a much more challenging route than Stairway to Heaven. It’s totally outside of the resort all the way, one needs good experience in mountain, glacier, weather, avalanche. Not to mention, it has a few sections you will be skiing on very steep couloirs with varied snow conditions.
Accessing backside is a lot easier to locate.
1. You just take the cable car to Mont Fort (highest station in Verbier), walk down the stairs leads to the normal slopes.
2. Usually there parks a big snowcat. Cross the rope beside the cat, and traverse towards your left hand side. Take good speed control in the beginning of the traverse as it goes through fairly vital cliffs.
3. After the traverse, just use your basic skier’s instinct to find the way. You’ll pass two lakes on the way down. You should stay on the left side of the first lake and very importantly, make sure you stay on the right side of the second lake by the dam.
4. Reaching the second lake, it’s a short distance of flat you need to ski through. It goes a bit upwards from time to time, but no skins needed here.
5. In the end of the lake, it’s a dam, when you go down, have the dam on your left hand side, it first goes through a few trees, then traverse to the left following a small road, you will reach Tortin in the end.